Last month in Splitting Hares we discussed the ins and outs of breeding rabbits. This month we will be following this up, by talking about baby bunnies (Called Kits). When born, kits are very small, and fragile. They have no fur and cannot see or hear. They have a high mortality rate, and can often have fatal birth defects. But, even though raising kits can be difficult, it is one of the most rewarding parts of our hobby!
When born kits have no fur, but they start to grow a soft fuzz when they are only one day old. by the time they are 2 weeks old they have a sort coat of fur and have opened their eyes. At 3 weeks old they start to venture out of the next box. When they are 4 weeks old they are eating solid food, and munching on hay. By 8 weeks old they are fully weaned off of their mothers and can be taken to their own cage. At this age you can sell the kits, as it is illegal to sell them under 8 weeks of age.
If the rabbit only has one kit, or the mother dies, and more than one doe has been bred at the same time (this is highly recommended) there is the option of fostering the single kit to a healthy litter, to give it a higher chance of survival. This does not always work, and it is not recommended if the fostering doe has a large litter to begin with. It has saved many lives though and is often worth the risk. To prepare the kit for fostering, First rub a rag dipped in vanilla abstract all over all the kits in the healthy litter, and the kit to be fostered. Be sure they all smell of the vanilla. Rub the does nose with the cloth, so that she smells like vanilla as well. then put all of the kits (including the fostered one) into the nestbox of the foster mother. Keep a close eye on the litter for a few days after fostering to be sure that she is feeding all, and has not rejected the foster kit. When fostering kits of the same breed, and or color, a way of identifying the foster lit is to put a small sharpy dot in the kits ear, checking often as it may rub off. This is a way to know what rabbit belongs to what mother.
Kits can easily become ill in the first few weeks of life, so it is important to look over all kits at least once a day, to make sure that they are healthy. One common ailment is when the babies start to eat solid food, their rear ends may become swollen. To try to stop the swelling, and save the kit, you can put a dot of triple antibiotic ointment on the swollen area 2 times a day until the swelling goes down. If swelling presists consult your vet for further instruction. Another common issue is not so much a illness, but the fact that mothers can sometimes overgroom their babies, causing them to tear an ear, or injure a leg. This is not fatal, but can make a rabbit unshowable, depending on how severe the tear is.
A common myth about kits is that they can not be touched when they are born, or the mother will reject them. This is not true at all. They can be touched from the minute they are born, but let the mother finish having all kits before disturbing her, so giving her at least an hour after she is done having them before you touch them is a good idea. When they are touched early on, and are held often, then they will be friendlier to humans, because they will have been interacting with them from day one.
When born kits can have a variety of fatal birth defects. The most common defect found in dwarf breeds such as Netherland Dwarfs, Holland Lops, and Jersey Woolies is called a “peanut”. A peanut is what happens when a dwarf rabbit gets two dwarfing genes, instead of one dwarfing gene, and one “Normal” gene. Having two dwarfing genes makes it so that the kits system is too small to support its body. They are characterised by being almost half the size of the other kits, having a bigger head, and eyes that bulge out more than the others. they also have under developed back ends, causing them to look pinched. These kits always die, most of the time in the first few days, but some have held on to be almost 2 weeks old.
Another defect, that is not as common, but still occurs is called “The Max Factor” kits with this are also called “frogs”. Kits with the max factor often exhibit flipper like feet, and twisted limbs, and sometimes they will have extra toes. When born the kits have their eyes open, which can often lead to eye infections due to the fact that the eyes were open in the birth canal. These kits can also have human like hair, or very soft hair, laking guard hairs. These kits do not always die, and can live a good life, if they survive.
Kits can be difficult to raise at times, but they are such a blessing, and it is so rewarding to see baby bunnies running around the cage, and watching them grow. They are what make our hobby possible!
When born kits have no fur, but they start to grow a soft fuzz when they are only one day old. by the time they are 2 weeks old they have a sort coat of fur and have opened their eyes. At 3 weeks old they start to venture out of the next box. When they are 4 weeks old they are eating solid food, and munching on hay. By 8 weeks old they are fully weaned off of their mothers and can be taken to their own cage. At this age you can sell the kits, as it is illegal to sell them under 8 weeks of age.
If the rabbit only has one kit, or the mother dies, and more than one doe has been bred at the same time (this is highly recommended) there is the option of fostering the single kit to a healthy litter, to give it a higher chance of survival. This does not always work, and it is not recommended if the fostering doe has a large litter to begin with. It has saved many lives though and is often worth the risk. To prepare the kit for fostering, First rub a rag dipped in vanilla abstract all over all the kits in the healthy litter, and the kit to be fostered. Be sure they all smell of the vanilla. Rub the does nose with the cloth, so that she smells like vanilla as well. then put all of the kits (including the fostered one) into the nestbox of the foster mother. Keep a close eye on the litter for a few days after fostering to be sure that she is feeding all, and has not rejected the foster kit. When fostering kits of the same breed, and or color, a way of identifying the foster lit is to put a small sharpy dot in the kits ear, checking often as it may rub off. This is a way to know what rabbit belongs to what mother.
Kits can easily become ill in the first few weeks of life, so it is important to look over all kits at least once a day, to make sure that they are healthy. One common ailment is when the babies start to eat solid food, their rear ends may become swollen. To try to stop the swelling, and save the kit, you can put a dot of triple antibiotic ointment on the swollen area 2 times a day until the swelling goes down. If swelling presists consult your vet for further instruction. Another common issue is not so much a illness, but the fact that mothers can sometimes overgroom their babies, causing them to tear an ear, or injure a leg. This is not fatal, but can make a rabbit unshowable, depending on how severe the tear is.
A common myth about kits is that they can not be touched when they are born, or the mother will reject them. This is not true at all. They can be touched from the minute they are born, but let the mother finish having all kits before disturbing her, so giving her at least an hour after she is done having them before you touch them is a good idea. When they are touched early on, and are held often, then they will be friendlier to humans, because they will have been interacting with them from day one.
When born kits can have a variety of fatal birth defects. The most common defect found in dwarf breeds such as Netherland Dwarfs, Holland Lops, and Jersey Woolies is called a “peanut”. A peanut is what happens when a dwarf rabbit gets two dwarfing genes, instead of one dwarfing gene, and one “Normal” gene. Having two dwarfing genes makes it so that the kits system is too small to support its body. They are characterised by being almost half the size of the other kits, having a bigger head, and eyes that bulge out more than the others. they also have under developed back ends, causing them to look pinched. These kits always die, most of the time in the first few days, but some have held on to be almost 2 weeks old.
Another defect, that is not as common, but still occurs is called “The Max Factor” kits with this are also called “frogs”. Kits with the max factor often exhibit flipper like feet, and twisted limbs, and sometimes they will have extra toes. When born the kits have their eyes open, which can often lead to eye infections due to the fact that the eyes were open in the birth canal. These kits can also have human like hair, or very soft hair, laking guard hairs. These kits do not always die, and can live a good life, if they survive.
Kits can be difficult to raise at times, but they are such a blessing, and it is so rewarding to see baby bunnies running around the cage, and watching them grow. They are what make our hobby possible!